I made a couple of these dresses for my daughters this last summer. This one is my older girl. The fabric is reproduction cotton, lined with muslin and white linen sleeve flounces. Cotton and lace cap. This dress was slightly modified from Rocking Horse Farm's Small Girls 18th Century Gown pattern. Closed in the back with trouser hooks and eyes since when I got it done there was not enough overlap for anything else other than lacing which I did not want to do.She loves this dress--still wears it to church and even wore it for school pictures this year.